Saturday 27 January 2018

Fishing Fleets of Bombay - Husband Hunters during the Raj

The below article was published in the mail online in the UK and has been copied here for the sole purpose for the spread of knowledge of a lesser known fact of life during the British Raj in India.


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Cleaving their way through the sapphire waters of the Indian Ocean, the ships bore their cargo into port.
British Indian flag is being raised at the Berlin Olympic Village in 1936.
Whether at Colombo, on the island of Ceylon (now Sri Lanka) or one of the Indian ports such as Madras, Calcutta or Bombay, the cargo was the same: hordes of eager young women, sweltering in the corsets, stockings and flannel underwear they were required to wear beneath their dresses — some still suffering from sea sickness as they staggered down the gangway into the searing heat.

These were the girls of the ‘Fishing Fleet’, and they had come to India for the purpose of landing their catch — a husband.

If they succeeded in their quest, they might soon find themselves ensconced in a spacious bungalow with a retinue of servants, as the wife of a senior official or officer.

Alternatively, if their beau was posted ‘up country’, they could end up eking out a miserable existence in a remote jungle or mountain range, fighting off the ravages of termites, cholera and bubonic plague.

Such were the fates of the Fishing Fleet who came to India in their thousands, right from the first days of Britain’s trade with India in the 17th century, to the twilight of the Raj as India headed toward independence in 1947.

Now, a fascinating new book by historian and former Daily Mail writer Anne de Courcy chronicles the lives of these intrepid women.

For generations, young men had sailed out to India as soldiers, bureaucrats and businessmen. Once there, some took Indian wives and mistresses and sired children with them. Others sated their lust in the numerous brothels that sprang up to serve the British.

In regimental towns, the brothels were even licensed and the prostitutes inspected for sexually-transmitted diseases and compulsorily treated, as they were back home in Britain.

But the Contagious Diseases Act, which required the examination of any woman suspected of being a prostitute near a garrison, was repealed in India in 1888, after which rates of venereal disease soared, incapacitating almost half the British soldiery (only soldiers, not officers, were allowed to use brothels).

So in the eyes of the authorities, shipping out British girls to keep their menfolk happy during their long exile made perfect sense. The East India Company — which effectively ruled over much of India until 1857, when the country came under British government rule — even helped provide the men with brides by paying the passage of single girls to come to India.
In 1671, 20 girls went out to Bombay on the promise of an allowance of £300 a year (about £25,000 today) for life from the Company if they married there. If they misbehaved in any way, they would be put on a diet of bread and water and shipped straight home. Any who did behave themselves, but failed to find a husband after a year, would be sent back in disgrace as a ‘returned empty’.

A bride of the British Raj: Iris Butler on her wedding day in 1927, one of the girls of the 'Fishing Fleet'
A bride of the British Raj: Iris Butler on her wedding day in 1927, one of the girls of the 'Fishing Fleet'
As a result, girls felt under huge pressure to marry the first eligible man who asked them. Many courtships were conducted within days. The first few nights ashore, the girls with the smartest social credentials would be invited to dinner by the ship’s captain. All the eligible British men in the neighbourhood would be asked along — young and old — to look over the cargo.

The prettiest girls would be snapped up quickly, the plainer ones would have to try their luck in India’s more remote stations, in the hopes of finding a man sufficiently desperate for a wife to stave off loneliness and sexual frustration.
By the 20th century, the advent of steamships and quicker voyages meant that men could more easily return home on leave to find a suitable bride. But with the desperate shortage of eligible men at home after World War I, shiploads of hopeful girls still continued to traverse the Indian Ocean in search of a husband.

Some were daughters returning to their parents in India after ten years at school in Britain. For others, it was a journey into the unknown, and many who came out on the steamships were innocent and unworldly.

Twenty-one-year-old Violet Hanson came to India in 1920 to escape the shame of a brief, disastrous marriage at home. She had married her brother’s tutor, but having never been taught the ‘facts of life,’ it was only months after the wedding that Violet saw a doctor and learned that she was still a virgin.

It transpired that her husband was homosexual. So the marriage was annulled, and Violet was packed off to India with an aunt. She soon became engaged to a handsome young officer, and the shame of her first marriage was expunged.

In the days of sail, the voyage could take months and was fraught with danger — primarily pirates and storms. In 1840, one ship coming into Bombay sank with the loss of 80 troops and all the women and children passengers, while the crowds on the shore watched helplessly.

Steamships, which took over from sail in the mid-19th century, were safer, faster and more comfortable, as well as romantic. Many a Fishing Fleet girl became engaged during moonlit strolls on deck with a handsome young man, although not all shipboard romances ended happily.

Enid Shillingford, who went to India in 1921 aged 24, fell in love during the journey with a handsome young officer, who duly proposed. They planned to wed when they reached Ceylon, but two days before their arrival Enid was informed that the man was already married.

Humiliated and heartbroken she took the next ship back to England. Five years later, she went back and this time was luckier. She fell in love with another gentleman on board, and was married on arrival.

Once in India, those who were either returning to their parents ‘up country’, or who had found a husband who lived far from the coastal ports, faced long, often arduous journeys by bullock cart, camel or elephant.

The advent of the railways made these journeys easier, but they could still take several days and the trains were stiflingly hot in summer. When Edwina Ashley, later Lady Mountbatten, travelled through India in temperatures of around 50C the train door handles were too hot to touch.

Heat was not the only hazard. Olive Crofton was travelling by train to meet her new husband in 1920 — he had gone ahead to prepare their  marital home — when a man began climbing through her compartment window with a large knife and  heavy stick.

There had been a spate of robberies and murders on the railways, so her husband had instructed her to pack a revolver.

She grabbed it, pointed it at him and asked him coolly, in Urdu: ‘Do you want to be shot?’ He threw himself backwards through the window and troubled her no more.

As well as getting to grips with the climate, there was the rigid social  etiquette that governed Raj life.

People were seated at dinners according to rank. Single girls had to be chaperoned at all times. And British women must on no account mix with Indians, other than servants.

The exceptions to this rule were the maharajahs, the hereditary rulers of India’s princely states who had surrendered power for fabulous wealth.

Their palaces were opulent beyond compare, they wore jewels and dazzling garments, even their elephants were painted in gorgeous colours. One maharajah had 52 Rolls-Royces. They entertained on a lavish scale.

Rosita Forbes met the Maharajah of Jodhpur in 1930, and described his fabulous palace with writing table sets encrusted with precious jewels and children’s balls set with rubies. He had a cap made of the finest solitaire diamonds.
While white girls might accept a maharajah’s hospitality, inter-racial marriage, even with a royal prince, remained unthinkable and forbidden by the Viceroy. ‘I was told who was within my marriage range and who wasn’t,’ remembered Iris James. ‘Anybody, however old and decrepit, bald or dull, was a possible husband, as long as he was white. Anybody with the slightest touch of colour wasn’t.’

One girl, Florry Bryan, defied this convention, falling in love with the wealthy Maharajah of Patiala. They began an affair in 1893 and, finding that she was pregnant, wed in secret, scandalising British and Indian society, both of which shunned Florry.

She gave birth to a son, who died in infancy. Florry passed away in 1896, and her husband soon followed her to her grave.
A more common scandal was adultery. Every summer, the wives and children of British officials would make their way up to the hill stations to escape the worst of the heat, while their husbands continued to toil away on the burning plains, joining them on leave when they could.

These hill stations, such as Simla, described as a place where ‘every Jack has somebody else’s Jill’, became hotbeds of extra-marital intrigue. ‘Perhaps it was the mountain air that caused so many women to cast away their inhibitions,’ pondered John Masters, a young Gurkha officer. ‘Perhaps the friendly unfamiliar wood fires burning on the hearths warmed their blood and made them think with fervour of romps on tiger skin divans.’


Not all of them got away with their behaviour. One man became suspicious when his wife kept returning late from dances in Simla with his best friend, a cavalry officer.

Once, when they were all staying at the same hotel, he burst into his friend’s room, and on finding him in bed with his wife, set about him with a poker. The cavalry officer was later posted to a department called Remounts, to general amusement.
Many latter-day Fishing Fleet girls fondly recalled their time as one  big party. Katherine Welford, who went to India aged 19 in 1932, recalled that during an eight-day visit to Madras she went out with eight different men.

Iris Butler, whose brother Rab became a leading Conservative politician, eventually Chancellor of the Exchequer, also recalled staying with her parents in Simla and going dancing 26 nights in a row, ‘after which I fell asleep at one of my mother’s official dinners when sitting next to a very woolly old judge, for which I was afterwards severely reprimanded.
In 1617, two unlikely travellers, Mariam Begum and Frances Steele (née Webbe), arrived at the busy port of Surat on board an East India Company ship called the Anne.

Another girl, Bethea Field, was so desperate to attend a dance several miles away — at which there would be lots of single men — that, faced with a lack of transport, she gamely hitched up her long satin dress and rode there on a camel.

Girls who did marry, but ended up in remote outposts, could expect a very different life to the whirl of balls, polo matches and tiger hunts that characterised life in the larger stations.

Sheila Hingston married a tea planter and went to live in almost total isolation in the Elephant Hills in southern India. She and her husband still changed into evening dress for supper every night, however, because: ‘It was felt one must keep up standards and not let oneself go native.’

Sheila survived smallpox and avoided bubonic plague, but battled loneliness and boredom for the 18 years she lived there. To see the nearest white woman, she had to walk five miles through the tea plantations.

Another source of anguish for the girls who successfully landed their ‘catch’ was that, when their children reached the age of six, they were expected to send them back to school in Britain and would seldom see them over the next ten years.

Both mothers and children were made miserable by these separations. During the school holidays the children were left at their boarding school, farmed out to relatives, or lodged with paid guardians.

Despite such sacrifices, many of the Fishing Fleet came to love India, the breathtaking sunsets over the mountains, the squawking of peacocks and parrots, the chattering of monkeys in the garden and the thrill of hunting tigers atop an elephant.

If they did return to Britain when their husbands retired, it felt, in Iris Butler’s words, ‘similar to bereavement’.
For years afterwards they would live off the memories of ‘the honey smell of the fuzz-buzz flowers, of thorn trees in the sun . . . more alive and vivid than anything in the West’.

THE FISHING FLEET: HUSBAND HUNTING IN THE RAJ by Anne de Courcy is published by Weidenfeld & Nicolson on July 12 at £20.


Read more: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2169532/Husband-hunters-Raj-How-fishing-fleet-1920s-society-girls-drawn-sexual-intrigues-India-steamier-climate.html#ixzz55SSeeoXb
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Sunday 26 March 2017

Saint Haji Ali of Bombay

Among all the people who have come to this island city few are remembered. Many make their mark but are lost in oblivion while others have their stories distorted - subjected to generations of Chinese Whispers.

Here too is the story of an Iranian Saint who came to the shores of Worli, Mumbai to preach the Good News of the Islamic Faith and whose tomb lay on the tourist map of today but whose story is seldom remembered.

Haji Ali Durgah
Haji Ali Dargah is one of the most popular religious places in Mumbai, visited by people of all religions alike. Haji Ali Dargah is one of India’s most famous and prestigious landmarks situated about 500 yards from the Mumbai shoreline in the middle of the Arabian Sea off Lala Lajpatrai Marg.
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 The structure was erected on a set of high rising rocks and was given its present day shape in the early 19th century after the Trust was legally formed as an entity in 1916.

 Haji Ali Dargah is the complex housing the tomb of the Muslim Saint Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari (R.A.). Along with the tomb, there is also a Masjid at Haji Ali.

But who is Pir Haji Ali Shah Bukhari??

Among the many Islamic sages who left their homes in Arabia and Persia, Pir Haji Ali, a Sufi Sage,  too found his calling on the shores of Worli in the 19th Century. Having left his mother and brother back home in Iran, Haji Ali made it his mission to preach the word of God to all who seek his message.

Considering that the saint was unmarried and had no descendants, his life stories are mostly passed down by word of mouth. One such popular story was that of a woman back home in Iran who was weeping miserably as she passed the saint. He called her near and on enquiry learnt that she had spilled some oil from her Urn and that her husband would beat her hearing of this. He asked her to take him to the sight of the spillage and on pressing his thumb into the site the oil oozed out like a fountain and filled the Urn much to the delight of the woman!

​​​​But among the varied stories, that of his death remain in popular belief. Before his death he has advised his followers that they should not bury Him at any proper place or graveyard and should drop his shroud ('kafan') in the ocean such that it should be buried by the people where it is found. His wish was obeyed by his followers. That is why the Dargah Sharief is built at the very site where his shroud came to rest in the middle of the sea where it was perched on a small mound of rocks rising above the sea. The Tomb and Dargah Sharief were built in the years to come.

Miracles after his death:

Pothole story
During the monsoon season almost all the roads of Mumbai become rough and have potholes. The shore line along the Hornby Vellard (Lala Lajpat Rai Marg) has been damaged numerous times due to the fury of the seas but up till today the pathway of the Dargah has never been damaged or become unsafe for the people to reach the Dargah Sharief even though it is situated in the middle of the Sea. The pathway has been spared by the fury of the sea and the monsoons. This is one of the biggest miracles of the saint, hundreds of years after his death.

Today people of all faiths visit the tomb to pay their respects.

Location of the Durgah : Worli – Near Mahalaxmi Temple / Race Course

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Source: http://www.hajialidargah.in/hajiali_miracles2.html

Wednesday 4 January 2017

Tale of The Royal Opera House - Bombay


Royal Opera House, also known as Opera House in Mumbai (formerly Bombay), is India's only surviving opera house. Situated on Charni Road, near Girgaum Chowpatti beach, the adjective ‘Royal’ was prefixed to ‘Opera House’ to reflect the fact that its foundation stone was laid during the British Raj in 1909, and King George V inaugurated the building in 1911 while the building was still under construction. Work on the Royal Opera House was completed in 1912, although additions were made to the building up to 1915. After years of neglect following its closure in 1993, restoration work started in 2008. 


The Royal Opera House was conceived in 1908 by Maurice Bandmann, a famous entertainer from Calcutta, and Jehangir Framji Karaka, who headed a coal brokers’ firm. A baroque design incorporating a blend of European and Indian detailing was chosen for the structure. A long frontage was created to let carriages drive up to the entrance. Twenty-six rows of boxes behind the stalls were put up for the best view of the stage. The ceiling was constructed to enable even those in the gallery to hear every word uttered by the performers.


It was built with exquisite Italian marble on a leased land close to the Kennedy and Sandhurst bridges. A pair of unique crystal chandeliers, called the ‘Sans Souci’ were donated by the David Sassoon family. The chandeliers, which were earlier located in the Sassoon mansion, were shifted to the foyer of the opera house. At the main entrance, the dome is segmented into eight different parts "as a tribute to poets, dramatists, novelists, literati and people from art and culture."


Maharaja of Gondal - For Representation only​
Inaugurated in 1912, the Opera House was acquired in 1952 by Maharaja Bhojrajsingh of Gondal, Gujarat [Today]. The Maharaja took the property on a 999-year lease and attempted to run it as a self-sustaining commercial enterprise.


Monday 12 December 2016

The tempting desire to be Politically Correct…

We live in a world that we claim is free. We are blinded by our own desire to be psychologically separated and yet we biologically, historically, politically and economically grow closer to the other. Today, every step we take, move we make and vow we break the lives of the people around us are positively or adversely affected and at times even have the power to alter the course of history.
But as our search for being aloof and disconnected draws us into the virtual world and empowers us with qualities we could only dream off, in reality we become weaker by the day. Not wanting to harm another and yet live the lives we dream and desire has led to the creation of a politically correct society.



Being Politically Correct is a phenomenon that once restricted itself to the drawing boards of many an office atmosphere where colleagues and supervisors choose to stay aloof from decision making or moments of truth so as to avoid being seen in the wrong light and inadvertently kill, once highly prized notion called “the risk taker”. Now its so vied that people across the spectrum of life have not just used its qualities but morphed it to suit their whims like a mask tailored to a particular face.
Being “Politically Correct” does not serve any constructive purpose. It provides an escape route to the weak who simply can’t handle the truth. It bargains for time by working in grey areas allowing the person in question to feel the mood of his opponent by choosing his words carefully and quickly changing his goalposts without being detected so that the opponent mostly sees him in good light. It is often misused to represent the qualities associated with losing face but rather it’s a cunning way to alter situations without creating enemies.

It is said that a diplomat’s job is to think thrice and do nothing but in this case saying nothing or choosing the most appropriate words that could best steer the communicator from possible controversies is making the everyday man a diplomat! But though this may have its benefits where unnecessary problems are avoided, it also has its downfalls.

People today, are becoming hyper sensitive to terminologies and often, being politically correct can be viewed as the scapegoat and catalyst to intensify the emotion rather than understand and solve the problem at hand. Instead of being brave and solving a dispute, people find solace in feigning ignorance and pushing stuff under the carpet. These comfort zones are so enticing that if made a religion they would have the largest number of followers the world over. People who are diplomatic and careful in what they say have the burden of knowing whats at stake and that the longevity of the problem will depend on their actions alone. They risk being perceived as impersonal and often as cowards who choose to hide behind terms and technicalities to digress the situation rather than solving a problem that could increase productivity.
So when we look back at this concept we realize that being politically correct is both a boon and a bane to the individual who possess it. If used intelligently it can end wars but if used callously it can generate them!


There has to be proper guidelines and limits as to when, where and how we can use this concept and that the same should be used appropriately and not as an answer to whimper behind our own inabilities. Its time we breakdown the Alice and Wonderland imagination w have of the world and see her for who she truly is.


Friday 28 October 2016

The Story behind Horniman Circle - Fort, Bombay

Bombay is known to be a melting pot of cultures the world over; right from the the British Raj till today. Life in the city was brought to life through the apt and efficient reporting of many a prominent newspaper including the Bombay Samachar and the Times of India. Freedom Fighters would often quote many a line from the Bombay Samachar, in particular, due to its unbiased views during the end times of the Raj.


But unlike the popular papers that have survived today here is a small peek into a paper that was not so lucky but none the less created a legacy worth remembering!

In April 1913, Congress leader Pherozeshah Mehta started The Bombay Chronicle, a newspaper which was an important Nationalist newspaper of its time, and an important chronicler of the political upheavals of a volatile pre-independent India. It was during this time that Benjamin Guy Horniman, an English journalist, who held the position of News Editor and Assistant Editor at the Calcutta Statesman in 1906, made a name for himself in India with his articles on the investigation of the Hindu-Muslim riots in Eastern Bengal, was invited by Mehta to start the Bombay Chronicle.

After the massacre of innocents at the now infamous Jallianwalla Baugh in the Punjab in 1919 and the subsequent glorification of General Dyer by the then British Authorities, it was Benjamin Guy Horniman, a British National and the then editor of the Bombay Chronicle [1913 - 1919] who decided to vociferously pursue the truth much to the dislike of the British Government.

They repatriated him under the Defense of India Act.  Undeterred, he returned to Bombay in 1926 to the hearty welcome of the Bombay public. Upon his return, he reentered the ranks of the Bombay Chronicle as its editor but resigned in March 1926. After Independence, as a mark of gratitude to his integrity and work for the Indian people that they renamed the then Elphinstone Circle located opposite the Town Hall to today's Horniman Circle.

The newspaper came to a close in 1959 A.D. 



An advert during the Independence struggle featured in the Bombay Chronicle


Wednesday 12 October 2016

The Bombay Duck - Secrets Untold!

Did you Know?


The Bombay Duck!


We have all heard of the famous dish of the Bombay City called the Bombay Duck; but seldom do people know that its not actually a duck but rather an eel. Locally called the Bombil it is also called the Lizard Fish 

The Bombay duck lives in the tropical areas of the Indo-Pacific. It has been traditionally caught in the waters off Maharashtra in the Lakshadweep Sea, where it is an important item of the yearly catch. This fish is also caught in the Bay of Bengal and in the South China Sea, although in smaller numbers.


​​​​The origin of the term "Bombay duck" is uncertain. One popular etymology relates to railways. When the rail links started on the Indian subcontinent, people from eastern Bengal were made aware of the great availability of the locally prized fish on India's western coasts and began importing them by the railways. Since the smell of the dried fish was overpowering, its transportation was later consigned to the mail train; the Bombay Mail (or Bombay Daak) thus reeked of the fish smell and "You smell like the Bombay Daak" was a common term in use in the days of the British Raj. In Bombay, the local English speakers then called it so, but it was eventually corrupted into "Bombay duck".


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The fish is often dried and salted before it is consumed, as its meat does not have a distinctive taste of its own. After drying, the odour of the fish is extremely powerful, and it is usually transported in air-tight containers. The Bombay duck is a popular food item in certain areas of India. Fresh fish are usually fried and served as a starter. In MumbaiKonkan, and the western coastal areas in India, this dish is popularly known as "Bombil fry".

Wednesday 31 August 2016

Why Widows In India Wear White Sarees?

Here is a video I have made to help explain and in a way hail the fight for the emancipation of women and especially widows who, over the years have been neglected by society.