Showing posts with label bandra. Show all posts
Showing posts with label bandra. Show all posts

Monday, 13 July 2015

Saint Peter’s Church, Bandra – A treasure of History, Heritage and Community spirit.

The city of Mumbai has always prided itself to be a Westernized and cosmopolitan city whose people are both belonging to varied faiths and strata of emotional and literal intelligence. And though this financial hub, of the seventh largest nation in the world, is fast becoming a haven for the hard workers and the wealth inheritors, the city has overtime, amassed many a story whose tales have both contributed and inspired the social and economic fabric of a modern metropolis.

Nestled just beyond the reach of the original seven islands of the now city that never sleeps, Bandra or Bandora was the last outpost of the Portuguese on mainland India. Bandra only developed as a trading post in 1505 when the then Portuguese Viceory Dom Francisco de Almeida enroute to finding the Lisboa of the East [Panjim], set up base here.

Bandra came into full Portuguese possession with the Sultanate of Cambay ceding the region in the Treaty of St Matthew signed aboard the Portuguese brig St. Matthew in Baçaim harbor in 1534. The first Christian missionaries however to set foot on this land were the Jesuits [Society of Jesus] upon receiving a Royal Confirmation of Permission in 1570 by the Portuguese Crown.  They built St. Anne's (Santa Anna) College and Church in Bandra, the first church here.

The Portuguese then built additional churches in the area following the transfer of the Bombay Islands in 1661 [Not including Bandra] to the British as a part of the Marriage treaty between Catherine of Bragança of Portugal and Charles II of England. Upon learning the local languages and through their works of social service, the Jesuits today enjoy the support of six catholic parishes; Mount Carmel St. Peter's, St. Andrew's, St. Theresa's, St. Anne's and St. Francis D'Assissi, that lie within an area of four square kilometres of each other.

The Jesuits controlled Bandra till 1739 when they approached the British for help against the invading Maratha Army. This led to, against their will, the destruction of many Portuguese bastions including St. Anne’s college and Bandra Fort as precaution against the Marathas using them as bases to attack the then islands of Bombay.

Statues brought in by German Missionaries are more than a hundred
years old each and in good condition
Today Bandra, has retained its distinct identity of being a quaint hamlet with its open spaces, historic and colourful buildings of varied eras intertwined with bikes and people who criss cross the inner lanes riddled with antique Christian crosses and East Indian Homes. One can even spot a taste of Bollywood being splashed by artists onto the public walls of heritage houses in a bid to maintain and decorate a village of simple folk who have seemed to be lost in a world oblivious to the construction boom that soon will threaten their very existence.

But among the varied monuments Bandra has to offer the discerning tourist, Saint Peter’s Church and community does stand out. Originally built in 1852 and then redone in 1938 in the Romanesque style, Saint Peter’s started out as a shrine nestled among fishing villages. It has today become the pride of a Christian Community whose values encircle around service and community spirit. Even amongst Christian communities in the rest of the city, such tight nit bonds and ties among families led by the service and works of the Jesuits who lead them has been exemplary.

Being an innocuous tourist wandering in search of a story of a rich past, I ended up being welcomed in open hands by a community I would now proudly call my own. From the youth who proudly showcased to me the wealth of art and sculptured that were amassed by the once Swiss-German Missionaries who stayed here and who were either detained or deported by the British during the First World War, but whose statues have stood the test of time, being worshiped a hundred years since their arrivals; to the gentle embrace and family like attitude of the elderly whose hospitality and kindness could inspire many a poet. Its not uncommon to be invited to a home for tea or even convert passers-by into friends. The gaothans nestled in Chapel Road, Veronica Road and Rebello Road among many are simply a place of joy and a time lost serving as gentle reminders through the beauty of their architecture and the attitude of their people on what a community should be and what we stake to loose with the rise of a concrete jungle.

 I felt I was truly in a simple quaint neighbourhood where people were more one than many. This being an irony when I come from the city beyond where as the cold winds blowing through the skyscrapers, one does feel lonely even if in a crowd. There is a sense of love and community spirit irrespective to who or what you are for here you are first human then the identity of your choice.

I would always treasure my maiden visit to Bandra as a townie and this hamlet, one among many, has shown me a new way of living my life; a lesson we all need in world where the Rupee replaces the Divine.





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Sunday, 12 July 2015

German Missionaries in British Bombay- A tale of devotion to service beyond the self

Bandra, a land that both hails the start of mainland India from the once islands of Bombay and currently a suburb of modern Mumbai metropolis, is riddled with interesting facets of ancient and contemporary history that has intertwined and camouflaged itself well into the social fabric of the land.

But among the varied tales that are proudly associated with the Portuguese pride the land still holds through its myriad of markings that are sported by Christian Heritage Relics around every corner waiting to be discovered and admired; there is a tale of a group of missionaries who sailed the unforgiving seas to make a home amongst a fisher-folk whose love and hospitality have led to a large following and the birth of seven parishes within an area of four kilometers.

Among all the Churches that claim to former Portuguese Glory, with age and a collection relics to support their just cause, one church in particular has more than what meets the eye. St Peter's Church, nestled proudly along Hill Road enroute from Bandra Station to Mt. Mary's Church, recently celebrated 160 years of its existence. A fact one may initially find it hard to believe considering its beauty and grandeur in romanesque style architecture. Even its central altar has striking similarities with the Saint Stephen Basilica in Budapest. 

St. Peter's Church, started off humbly as a shrine nestled quaintly among fisher folk in the once land called Bandora or Vandra which derives itself from the Urdu word for port. With the advent of the Portuguese in 1505, the first missionaries to set sail to India were the Jesuits or the Society of Jesus whose motto was ad majorem Dei gloriam meaning for the greater glory o God.

The Jesuits were sent in two batches. The first were young priests who hailed from German and Swiss Provinces that heeded to the call to serve the poor and suffering in India. Arriving in 1855 after a turbulent voyage upon the rough seas, their credibility was now being tested as they would now have to face hostility and suspicion in a strange land. They tried their best to prove their worth through hard work including the building of varied structures with minimal resources.

However, later with the outbreak of the First World War, many Jesuit priests were detained at internment camps in various parts of the country while others were repatriated to Germany. The German and Austrian Jesuits were brandished as "Alien Enemies". Many elder priests lost their lives but they still maintained their simplicity of life and desire to serve writing many a letter including the need for blankets and cutlery and the will to even pay for it while many would sound the SOS.

Fr Peter Ribes - Latin Teacher
Filling the void that was now created by the departing German speaking Jesuits, the next wave came in from Spain and arrived in India to fulfill their mission of service, via Karachi in 1921. A testament to the existence of the Spanish Jesuits are two stalwarts of Spanish Origin. First being Fr. Peter Ribes, who at the wise age of 90 has proudly authored several books; Second being Fr. Albert Jou who hailed from a Spanish seminary and now speaks good Gujarathi and the Third being Fr. Francis Juan, born in Valencia, Spain, has become famous for delighting Government Officials with his learnt Marathi when he famously told them "Tumchya peksha mee jaast Indian aahe" [I am more Indian than you].

But more than the priests themselves, the church has a wealth of treasures waiting to be explored ad admired. For example, the stained glass  on the windows were designed and made in China by a Spanish Jesuit Brother Antonio Navascues and was shipped to Mumbai. They can be best experienced in the early evenings when the westerly sun lights them up from behind. Even the main altar is made of Carrara Marble. Its facade depicts Leonardo da Vinci's The Last Supper carved in relief. It was donated by General Franco of Spain. To ensure the Last Supper model would reach in once piece, a duplicate was also dispatched and is kept at the base of the altar of Mt. Mary's Basilica.
Cardinal Valerian Gracias

Let us not forget our First Indian Cardinal, Valerian Gracias, now resting at the Wodehouse Church, Colaba, had received his episcopal ordination in this church on 29th June 1946.

Thus Saint Peters is a treasure hidden amongst a growing population who have made a rising concrete jungle that has replaced the quaint Bandra Villages, as their home and has stood the test of  time to make its mark as among the worthy Heritage Structures of Bombay. A fact the Government can't easily ignore. 


A gift from General Franco of Spain

Meeting Dom Garcia de Orta - Bombay's Jewish Master and Official First Resident

Bombay the Financial Capital of the second most populated country in the world started off humbly as seven individual islands off the western coast of the Indian peninsula. These islands were Colaba or Kolbhat, Old Woman's Island, Bombay, Parel, Mazgaon, Worli and Mahim. These islands were further separated from the mainland by a larger, and more dicreet in history, islands of Salcette [Bandra], Thane, Bassim [Vasai] and beyond. 

Francisco de Almeida
The islands first came under the radar of the wandering Portuguese was with the advent of the soon to be First Portuguese Viceroy of Goa, Dom Francisco de Almeida, who was guiding his fleet in search of the Lisboa of the East for a stronger foot hold in the Indian subcontinent. Having lost their bases in Gujarat, the Portuguese needed a stronger enclave that could give them a better control over the Indian Ocean. It is interesting to note that Dom Lourenço de Almeida son of Francisco de Almeida, was sent by his father and captured Ceylon for the Portuguese crown.

It was on his way down the western coast of India that he stopped on the tip of the Salcette island, at a place called Vandra which in Marathi translates as Port, in 1505. It was however, only in 1534 that the Portuguese could take control of the Salcette island. Bandra soon became a Portuguese possession with the Sultanate of Cambay ceding the region in the Treaty of St Matthew signed aboard the Portuguese brig St. Matthew in Baçaim harbor 1534, particularly as a result of the efforts of the
Nuno da Cunha
Governor-General Nuno da Cunha and Diogo da Silveira. The Portuguese acquired Bandra, Kurla, Mazagaon and four other villages in 1548 to a certain Antonio Pessao as a reward for his military services. This was confirmed by the Royal Chancellery on the 2 February 1550. As these villages were given for a period of 'two lives,' they reverted to the Crown after the death of Isabella Botelha, Pessao's widow. The Jesuits who had applied for these villages in anticipation of the death of Isabella Botelha obtained them from the Viceroy in 1568, receiving Royal confirmation in 1570.

It was however, in the 1500's, the seven islands which were separated from Salcette by a creek that would soon shave a secret worthy only for the inquisitive. Dom Francisco de Almeida, on landing upon these islands realised that there was not much use for them and considering that they were inhabited by local koli fishing folk, decided to call the islands Bom Bhaia meaning Good Bay. But chose not to do much with it as they were in quest for Panjim, the Lisboa 0f the East. 

20 Escudos of Portugal with Garcia de Ortega
Garcia de Orta was born in Castelo de Vide, probably in 1501, the son of Fernão (Isaac) da Orta, a merchant, and Leonor Gomes. He had three sisters, Violante, Catarina and Isabel. Their parents were Spanish Jews from Valencia de Alcántara who had taken refuge, as many others did, in Portugal at the time of the great expulsion of the Spanish Jews by the Reyes Catolicos Ferdinand and Isabella of Spain in 1492. Forcibly converted to Christianity in 1497, they were pejoratively classed as Cristãos Novos (New Christians) and marranos ("swine"). Some of these refugees maintained their Jewish faith secretly. A friendly neighbour at Castelo de Vide was the nobleman Dom Fernao de Sousa, Lord of Labruja, who may have influenced the idea Garcia father to send him to University. Dom Fernao's son Martim Afonso de Sousa would become a key figure in later life.

D. Joao III of Portugal
Garcia studied medicine, arts and philosophy at the Universities of Alcalá de  Henares  and  Salamanca in Spain. He graduated and returned to Portugal in 1525, two years after his father's death. He practiced medicine first in his home town and from 1526 onwards in Lisbon, where he gained a lecturership at the university in 1532. He also became royal physician to John III of Portugal.

Perhaps fearing the increasing power of the Portuguese Inquisition, and fortunately evading the ban on emigration of New Christians, he sailed for Portuguese India leaving Tagus in March 1534 as Chief Physician aboard the fleet of Martim Afonso de Sousa, later to be named Governor. He reached Goa in September. He travelled with Sousa on various campaigns, then, in 1538, settled at Goa, where he soon had a prominent medical practice. He was physician to Burhan Nizam Shah I of the Nizam Shahi dynasty of Ahmadnagar, and concurrently to several successive Portuguese Viceroys and governors of Goa. 

He was the first European to describe Asiatic tropical diseases, notably cholera; he performed an autopsy on a cholera victim, the first recorded autopsy in India. Garcia de Orta reveals in his writings an unusual independence in face of the usually revered texts of ancient authorities, Greek, Latin and Arabic.

Cover of Clusius' 1574 Latin translation.
It was in gratitude to his service to the Portuguese crown that the then King of Portugal, through the Viceroy Dom Pedro Mascarenhas, granted a lifelong lease (on payment of a quit-rent) to Garcia da Orta for the Ilha da Boa Vida ("the Island of the Good Life") which became a part of Bombay. This was probably somewhere between September 1554 and June 1555. The only condition of the lease was that he had to improve the place. He had a manor house with a large garden. He probably maintained an excellent library here. This manor stood not far from where the Town Hall of Bombay was built. Garcia probably let out the house to Simao Toscano. At the time of Bombay's transfer to the English, the manor was occupied by Dona Ignez de Miranda, widow of Dom Rodrigo de Monsanto. It was in this house that the treaty by which Bombay was transferred to the English was signed by Humphrey Cooke on the 18th of February 1665. 

Garcia de Orta married a rich New Christian relative, Brianda de Solis, in 1543; the marriage was unhappy, but the couple had two daughters.Brianda de Solis was the lady of Bombay, the only lady-owner of an island that Camôes ever came to know. After the death of Orta’s mother, in 1557, the couple left Goa, to go and live in Bombay, and it must be here that Brianda welcomed not "Gama", but Camôes himself. There are some who say that there was no such island inhabited only by women, but the fact is that when Garcia de Orta , and his male retinue, traveled to the court of the Nizam, the island was peopled only by women. Brianda had two daughters, Beatriz and a younger one, and had at least three Indian maids - Antónia, Brianda and Leonor, who maybe went around half-dressed, just as many Indian women are depicted – and she had moreover at least one negro slave, called Joana. In 1549 his mother and two of his sisters, who had been imprisoned as Jews in Lisbon, managed to join him in Goa.
Luis de Camôes 

 In 1549 his mother and two of his sisters, who had been imprisoned as Jews in Lisbon, managed to join him in Goa. According to a confession by his brother-in-law after his death, Garcia de Orta privately continued to assert that "the Law of Moses was the true law"; in other words, he, probably in common with others in his family, remained a Jewish believer. In 1565 the Inquisition was introduced to the Indian Viceroyalty and an inquisitorial court was opened in Goa. Active persecution against Jews, secret Jews, Hindus and New Christians began. Garcia himself died in 1568, apparently without having suffered seriously from this persecution, but his sister Catarina was arrested as a Jew in the same year and was burned at the stake for Judaism in Goa in October 25, 1569. 

Garcia himself was posthumously convicted of Judaism. His remains were exhumed and burned along with an effigy in an auto da fé on December 4, 1580. They were among 342 New Christians accused of crypto-Judaism of whom 68 were executed between 1561 and 1623. His books were most likely burnt as well, possibly a reason why no copy of his book exists in Goa. The fate of his daughters is not known. During his lifetime, Orta had been protected from the Goa Inquisition by his friend and patron, Martim Afonso de Sousa, Governor-General of Portuguese India from 1542 to 1545.
Martim Afonso de Sousa

the Inquisition in Goa lasted 252 years, from 1560 until 1812, and were it not for the fact that Goa was occupied militarily by the British during the Napoleonic wars as French in South India were a serious threat to Goa. It believe that the British had a lot to do, to banish this iniquitous organization, which sent to the stake, more than 39,000 people, not only "new Christians" (marranos), but also many Goans who had been Christianized, and were unjustly accused of venerating in secret their ancient gods.

It was however, in 1661, with the rise of the English Empire that the then King of Portugal, John VI, the 8th Duke of the house of Braganza, having proclaimed himself King by deposing the then ruling Habsburg Dynasty in 1640, realised great potential in the friendship between Portugal and England. In 1661, he married off his 14 year old daughter Catherine of Braganza to the then English monarch Charles II in what was to become the longest surviving friendship in the world despite Spanish opposition. 

With the marriage, Portugal obtained military and naval support against Spain and liberty of worship for Catherine. while the English, apart from, the city of Tangiers in Morocco, Tea from Macau, trading privileges in Brazil and the East Indies, religious and commercial freedom in Portugal, and two million Portuguese crowns (about £300,000), also ceded the seven islands of Bombay which they marketed as being off the coast of Brazil.

King Charles II & Queen Catherine of Braganza
Since King Charles II was in perennial needs of funds. He leased the islands to the East India Company in exchange for a loan and a yearly rent of ten pounds in 1668. Sir George Oxinden was the first Governor appointed by the East India Company.

With the formal ceding of the Bombay islands in 1665, the English built a fort in southern Bombay and called it Fort St. George. Extentions of the fort were made in the form of Mahim, Sion, Riva and Worli forts that were to protect the now English territory from possible attacks by the Portuguese in Salcette and the Maratha from mainland India.

The British then extended the Fort to accommodate the existing the historical structure, “Manor House” referred to in records as the “Portuguese Governor's House” which was built by Garcia da Orta.  He leased the Bombaim Island as proprietor or vazador from the Portuguese authorities in 1554 until his death in Goa, in 1570. Later, it became the residence of the Portuguese Governor. 

Bombay Castle
In 1830 Bombay Castle became the Headquarters of the Indian Navy, which was constituted form the old Bombay Marine.

Today however, as one passes by the Bombay Castle, he is greeted by Two figures of Portuguese soldiers bearing aloft the great globe itself, significant emblem of an inflated dominion by sea and land'. 


The Times of India of 15th January 1941 said that Castle Barracks was built "on the original structures which centuries ago was the headquarters of the Portuguese Government and was later used as Government House by the first 20 British Governor.”


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